Thoughts on Italy

We have just come back from an expensive but entertaining day on Capri (pronounced KAH-pree, not like the pants). We completely blew our budget, but it was worth it as the views from the isalnd were stunning. I am just burning a DVD, so I'll put up some photos later, but thought I'd take a moment to reflect on Italy.

Compared to France and Barcelona, Italy seems like it is on a different planet! The people on the street walk at what we have dubbed "Italian pace", making it difficult to walk anywhere in a hurry. It's not uncommon for them to completely stop as they amble about, completely oblivious to anything and everyone. But as soon as those same people get behind the wheel of a car they all think they are in the F1! Crossing the road takes faith, as there are no crossing lights and the cars won't stop if you wait on the side of the road. You have to walk out in front of the cars and trust that they will brake. Usually they do, but some will just swerve around you and keep going flat out. You have to make sure to keep a consistent pace!

For a country that has millions of tourists each year, they do try pretty hard to give visitors a bad impression. The toilets are filthy and have no seats. Almost all tourist sites have rude staff. The trains are old, dirty and always late (unless you're late too, in which case they are on time). The streets have almost no signage. The pavement will occasionally disappear, leaving you to walk on the street and dodge cars. Everyone smokes, everywhere, all the time. There is dog poo everywhere and here in the Napoli district they haven't collected the rubbish in several weeks!

Yet, despite all this, Italy is a fantastic place and one that I could easily visit again. Our guidebook advised us to take a deep breath and relax whenever we encounter these Italian-isms, and that has been invaluable advice. We have also found that when you are able to spend a little more time and get to visit the same place a few times, the locals do warm to you. Quite often, the best hospitality is found in the cheapest, back street places.

In Rome we ended up in a small local food place after the restaurant we were looking for was closed. We umm-ed and ahh-ed before ordering the cheapest things on the menu (2 pastas) but the owner, although he didn't speak english, was gracious and very patient. He must have pitied our minimal meal, because he gave us large serves. While we were eating he came over and gave us a plate of fresh whole fave beans and pecorino cheese, and even showed us how to pop them out to eat, completely free! It was such a stark contrast to the overcharging, short-changing street vendors and cafés near the tourist sites and its a memory that has stuck with us. We have made it a habit now to seek out the smaller local places. If your hotelier is a local, it's a good idea to ask them where they eat!

In the end, that's the trick with Italy. It's not as organised as France or as welcoming as Spain, but once you get past the all the touristy crap and get to the heart of the real Italy, it is perhaps the most rewarding.