The thing about Italy is that no one respects the line, least of all the driver. There were 12 people in front of us when we arrived and about 19 when the bus actually arrived (the bus was so late I counted them several times). The mostly English tourists kept directing people to the back of the queue, but when the driver turned up he promptly parked half way down and opened the doors. Luckily for us, we were half way down the line and so got on the bus relatively quickly after letting a few of the oldies on.
The bus ride around the Amalfi coast is probably one of the best bus rides I have ever experienced. The bus hugs the cliffside as it winds back and forth around the coast between the towns. At some points there is a 150m+ drop on one side and a cliff face on the other, with only one lane and numerous blind corners. The driver would toot his horn on the approach to the tightest hairpins to alert any oncoming drivers. We got a seat on the right hand side and so got the most scenic view. Michelle had the window seat and was our cameraman for the trip. So many times on the trip you are left wide-eyed and mouth agape, it's hard to capture on camera with all the trees and road signs whizzing by. It is something I would recommend easily, despite the 2 hours of hairpin turns!
Yes, that is the view from the bus window! We didn't stay long in Amalfi before heading off to Salerno and then to Paestum. We didn't really realise until afterwards how far we had travelled, but it took us over 3 hours to get there by bus and just over 2 hours to get back by train! Our bus to Salerno broke down on the way, which didn't help either. Once we got to Paestum, though, we quickly forgot all that as we were blown away by the ancient Greek ruins. There are three temples standing in what was originally a Greek town, which was subsequently conquered by Luccians, Romans, Etruscans and anybody else who happened along. They all seem to have respected the previous customs and so what remains are some of the best preserved ruins in Magna Graecia. The museum has some of the only surviving Greek paintings, including the famous diver. For 2500+ year old ruins they were certainly amazing. Italy may not have the best Roman ruins, but they have some of the best Greek ones!
Today we spent time on the island of Capri. It was one very, very expensive day, but it seems there is no such thing as a cheap day on Capri. Our first port of call was the famous Blue Grotto. We saved a bit of cash by taking a bus to the grotto and jumping onto a rowboat at the bottom of the stairs leading to the water. The scene near the entrance was pure madness. Tour boats jostled for position and shouted to the smaller rowboats to come and take their passengers into the grotto. Once you get in a rowboat (and pay the 10€ per person fee) your boatman will grab a chain near the entrance, ask you all to lie very flat and then time the waves before pulling you through the small entrance. Our guy managed to bang the boat on the top of the rock, but we made it in. Once in you get a quick 5 minute paddle (and an 'impromptu' song) around the 60m long, 20m deep grotto before you repeat the procedure and pop out into the real world again. The blue light is quite remarkable, but the rigmarole involved in getting there is the most fun.
Next up we grabbed a chairlift to the top of one of the mountains (I forget the name). The trip takes you over numerous lemon, orange, and kiwifruit orchards before the final steep ascent. Twelve minutes later we were on top of the world looking down on creation. The view from so high up reminded me of being on an aeroplane, with the horizon blurring the sky and sea together.
We decided to hike back down and visit a church perched on the side of the mountian with a supposedly unbeatable view. Our path was blocked, however, by a scaly serpent!
We had seen a snake in Paestum the previous day (complete with girlish screams from both Michelle and myself) but that one seemed to be more scared of us than we were of it. The one on Capri, however, was not going to give up his favourite sunning rock. It was us or the snake, and so we turned around and ran back to Anacapri.
A short bus and ferry ride later we were back in Sorrento and far away from the snake. We grabbed a gelatti and wandered back to our hotel, just in time to sit and watch the sun set from a terrace nearby.
Back in the hotel we bumped into a couple from Victor Harbor while I was backing up some photos and talked for so long that our early night became yet another late one. After another huge meal at Taverna Rosso we are ready to hit the sack and prepare for Venice, the last Italian stop on our journey. I think I'm gonna miss the madness!
1 comment:
cool pics and stories guys. That areea of the world looks stunning. The snake thing is very much a turn off for me but I'm sure I'll get over it!
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